This restaurant brings authentic Calcutta biryani to Dubai

How did the humble potato show up in Calcutta biryani?

The traditionally protein-and-rice dish was reportedly brought to India by the Mughals. Later, when the last king of Awadh, Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, was exiled to Kolkata, he brought with him Awadhi delicacies, including the flavour-packed biryani to the city. When times were tough and mutton scarce, he introduced a potato into the mix. The result, a nostalgia-inducing new meal. However, this version was kept for the elite up until Abdul Rahim, who had deserted the British Army, found himself looking for a way to earn money in 1929. When he got a whiff of the potato-ensemble, he knew he had a winner. And so, Aminia was born. “We were the first to commercially sell this biryani,” explains Kabir Azhar, a great-great grandson of the founder.

And it’s these same subtle flavours that the chain – now known across India for its kathi rolls as much as for its biryani – has brought to Dubai. The two branches of Aminia in Dubai (in Karama and Dubai Production City) serve up legacy on the walls – which are decorated with old menus and paintings of scenes from the Indian city on the banks of the River Hooghly; photographs of famous patrons such as the cricketing legend Sachin Tendulkar; and little-known facts such the nugget that Kolkata’s New Market branch still uses coal fire stoves.

Kabir Azhar and his brother, Asher Ather

“We have our own spice mix for the biryani,” says Kabir, adding that the recipe hasn’t been changed in decades. It is, he confesses, different from its Awadhi cousin, “it’s lighter, with lesser spice”. “The food was adapted for the taste buds of the region; they prefer the sweeter notes. And when the restaurant officially opened a brick-and-motor store in 1947, we had a lot of Britishers coming in there. So, we also have some dishes that cater to their preferences such as the Aminia special curry. It's a very light stew with an egg, some veggies, tomato, onion, potato, and meat. They would eat this with chapatis (or flat bread) for breakfast,” he adds.

While the chain has been gaining popularity across India, the family also hungered for an international station. “My father used to travel a lot to Dubai. It was his dream to have an international outlet. And Dubai is actually the easiest and best place to open a restaurant: there’s a lot of Indians, which means people already familiar with the brand; there is ease of doing business there; and the flavour profiles are not too alien for the Arab crowd.”

In the UAE, Kabir and his brother, Asher Ather, have revamped the menu a bit. It’s not just rich in heirloom recipes but also in new offerings such as the dum biryani and chicken tikka butter masala. “We also added a big kebab menu because we know that kebabs and grills are really popular in this part of the world,” adds Kabir.

Now that the brand has landed in the region, the brothers are keen to expand. “Dubai is kind of a gateway to the entire Middle East. So, yeah, that's the long-term plan. But for now, we are learning what people want here and getting the flavours right.”

Want to taste a recipe that’s been around for generations? Or just craving that spiced up potato, rice and meat combo? Head to Aminia for that original flavour.